From an idea sown, an Orange Tree grows (hktdc.com)


	Chef Pieter Onderwater believes Hong Kong’s dining experiences are unique in the world

Dutch chef Pieter Onderwater was working aboard a cruise liner when he decided to “jump off” in Hong Kong, intending to stay for a year. Fifteen years and two restaurants later, the owner and founder of The Orange Tree restaurant in Soho explains why his roots will remain firmly planted in Hong Kong.

‘I had been travelling the world extensively before I decided to stop over in Hong Kong, which I had visited before and enjoyed. Once I started working here, I couldn’t believe what I had found. Hong Kong hotels are just like the hotels of old: they have their own butcheries, patisseries and delicatessens, where everything is made from scratch - and a hundred or more chefs working in the kitchen. Can you imagine how exciting that is for a chef coming from Europe, where everything is brought in from outside?

I worked for the Hong Kong Jockey Club and New World (now Renaissance) Hotels, then nine years ago, I decided to start my own business. I had identified a market niche. A lot of freestanding restaurants were not yet that good, and people still went to hotels for a fine meal. Then the escalator opened (a world-famous icon of the Soho dining and entertainment precinct in Mid-Levels, Central) and rents became more affordable.

Recipe for success

Getting started was very easy. The procedures are clear, so you just follow the books. The business environment in Hong Kong is positive and encouraging. Everyone is keen to share their experience, and very helpful to someone starting out.

Hospitality is a highly competitive business, but in Hong Kong if you provide quality and service then you can succeed. The dining culture here is mature and sophisticated, and people are adventurous when it comes to trying new things.

At The Orange Tree our motto is “Dutch hospitality at its finest”. Holland is one of the biggest exporters of agriculture in the world, so we build our menu around its seasonal fresh produce – for example, black mussels, grey shrimps, smoked eel, white asparagus, and beautiful salted lamb. Hong Kong’s air cargo and importing networks are so efficient that everything arrives fresh on my doorstep, without hiccups or delays.

Running the restaurant hasn’t been the headache it might have been in some other cities. Workers here are multinational, willing and efficient. The tax environment is very good, and Hong Kong people have a “can do” spirit. Every neighbourhood has its own tradespeople, so if I need a plumber, he will be here in 15 minutes.

We’ve also been creative in developing the business, starting a lunchtime sandwich delivery service as a nice way to introduce our dinner business.

World-class dining

Soho is, I believe, one of the great dining experiences of the world. When I started The Orange Tree, Soho had only 10 restaurants and bars- now there are close to 100, with new ones opening every week. Everyone wants to have a slice of the pie! All those businesses are based in local houses, with a lot of boutiques in between, so you get a great mix. Everything is so accessible in Hong Kong, and with 13,000 licensed eateries throughout the city, the diversity of the dining experience is unbelievable.

Five years ago I opened a second restaurant in Wanchai, but I found that I was more of a hands-on guy, and it was more enjoyable to concentrate on one. I also believe in work life balance, which is another aspect of Hong Kong that appeals to me. I enjoy the climate, and now that I have a family, appreciate that Hong Kong is a very safe city, with a multicultural environment, space for children to grow and a tremendous outdoor lifestyle. Sure, I could go to, say, Beijing or Shanghai, but the question would always be: where am I going to put my family?’