Haute Kotur shines as fashion's must-have (hktdc.com)


	Designer Fiona Kotur-Marin has turned a "treasure trove" of vintage brocade sourced in Hong Kong into a must-have global fashion label

Creative inspiration can often appear as a "bolt from the blue". For an American designer living in Hong Kong, it was bolts of a different kind that started the whirlwind of an exclusive, high-end global fashion accessory label.

Just four years after first arriving in Hong Kong, Fiona Kotur-Marin has found a prestigious worldwide clientele for her sophisticated, meticulously crafted bags, sold under the brand name Kotur. Global fashionistas quickly snapped up her limited edition creations, first carried in upmarket boutiques including Scoop NYC in the US and Browns in London.

Now, Kotur is sold in over 100 boutiques in the US, and upmarket department stores Bergdorf Goodman and Bendels. International markets span the UK, France, Italy, Germany, Brazil, New Zealand and Japan, with Kotur stockists including Harvey Nichols in London, Hong Kong and Dubai.

Ms Kotur-Marin "didn't work at all at first" after moving to Hong Kong in 2002 to join her husband on his overseas posting. Her design experience with Ralph Lauren and GAP in New York was soon put to good use as Ms Kotur-Marin began helping her US friend, Tory Burch, source materials for a clothing business she was starting. "This was a great opportunity to re-kindle relationships with suppliers I had used in the past," said Ms Kotur-Marin, who had often visitied Hong Kong on buying trips for her previous employers.

Relationships matter

Living in Hong Kong proved to be "essential". Her close connections with manufacturers and suppliers led Ms Kotur-Marin to meet an elderly Chinese factory owner who had decided to retire. He offered her his inventory, which turned out to be a treasure trove of "eye candy" – bolt after bolt of vintage brocades, rich in history and luxury.

"It was just sitting there, waiting to be discovered," Ms Kotur-Marin said. Though not sure exactly what she was going do to with it, she bought the lot.

It turned out that, though gorgeous, much of the brocade was damaged. Out of a whole bolt it was a struggle to make a single pair of pants, so Ms Kotur-Marin settled on an evening bag instead.

"I had the idea to make a single evening bag that could be worn casually or black tie, with a rhinestone ornament," she said. "I have friends in retail in New York and thought I'd make contact to see if there was any interest."

As it happened, one of these friends owns Scoop – and after seeing the sample and her swatches, placed a large order for her 11 stores. That was the beginning of Kotur.

Ms Kotur-Marin believes her bags struck a chord because "brocades were trendy at the time, but also very classic and beautiful". "People started requesting it, and I decided to do an entire line," she said.

Her bags are made by traditional craftsmen at specialised factories in China, mostly in Dongguan in the Pearl River Delta, where many of the world's luxury goods are produced. Living close by in Hong Kong, Ms Kotur-Marin is able to visit the factories weekly, which she says gives her an edge.

"Hong Kong is the perfect bridge between luxury markets and consumerism," she said. "It is a big, international city which is incredibly cosmopolitan, and where different ideas converge. As a designer, I find Hong Kong personally very stimulating."

Highest quality

Ms Kotur-Marin says the quality of workmanship is such that "I'm proud to say my brand is made in China". "Whatever pre-conception there was (about quality from China), it is about to change," she said. "When the International Herald Tribune and Financial Times held their luxury goods conferences in Hong Kong and Shanghai over the past two years, every global luxury brand was represented. They are all looking at China – either for manufacturing or distribution – as they all recognise that China is their future."

The Kotur momemtum is growing at astonishing pace. The brand's products are now set at diverse price points, encompassing clutches, evening and day bags – all exquisite, and many limited editions. Like a rare wine, the original bolts of brocade are being savoured slowly, with only a few used each season, and every one numbered.

If not for Hong Kong, Ms Kotur-Marin says none of this would have been possible. "I am proud to be building a luxury brand that is all about Hong Kong and China," she said.