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Gourmet capital stars in new Michelin Guide (02/10/2008)

  Lan Kwai Fong
  Famous for its restaurants and night life, Lan Kwai Fong is a must-visit for all travellers to Hong Kong
  Zuma
  From London to Hong Kong:  acclaimed Japanese restaurant Zuma is one of the top-shelf establishments expected to get a gong in the city’s first Michelin Guide

Hong Kong has long prided itself as the culinary capital of Asia. But the city is set to make an even deeper imprint on the international food map, with the city as the next stop for the famed Michelin Guide. The Hong Kong edition of the "little red book" is due for release by the end of this year, the second Asian version after launching in Tokyo last year.

"Hong Kong has elegant, top-quality hotels offering impeccable service, as well as restaurants featuring a wide variety of cuisines, said Jean-Luc Naret, director of the Michelin Guide. Indeed, the city has been attracting top chefs to town, including celebrated Japanese chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Michelin-starred French chef Alain Ducasse, as well as compatriot Joel Robuchon, who holds a record 18 Michelin stars.

For local restaurateurs, though, news of a Hong Kong Michelin Guide merely confirms what they have known all along. "Hong Kong's food scene is very sophisticated. You can get top-of-the-line Thai, Japanese, Italian meals. You can basically have top-quality level meals everyday," said Christian Talpo, General Manager of Zuma Hong Kong.

The acclaimed Japanese restaurant-bar, originally from London, opened in the city last year because it saw Hong Kong as an obvious next stop. "People here like to eat well, eat good food. They're keen to experiment and will give you the benefit of the doubt. If they believe in you, you will do well."

Discerning palates

Mr Talpo said Hong Kong has an eclectic dining scene that attracts all types of clientele. But savvy Hong Kong diners, he said, generally look for value for money and quality. "You can't pass meguro tuna for a chutoro."

"Hong Kong diners demand a high level of quality," said David Gwynne, Manager of another award-winning Hong Kong restaurant, 1/5 Nuevo. The dining establishment is part of Hong Kong-based restaurant group Elite Concept, which has six restaurants in the city. "Hong Kong has a lot of Asian fusion influence, making the place more dynamic, in terms of the scale of variety of foods," added Mr Gwyne.
 
The Michelin Guide will not be the first to recognise Hong Kong's food scene. In May, New York-based Zagat Survey published its first guide to Hong Kong restaurants and hotels, providings ratings and information for tourists. Meantime, the Miele Guide, due to come out in the autumn, is also expected to feature Hong Kong restaurants.
 
"People from around the world are now realising that Hong Kong has been and is one of the most exciting places in the world to dine." The guide's associate publisher, Pauline Ooi told the South China Morning Post.

According to Mr Talpo, Hong Kong restaurants have the edge over their counterparts in Asia when it comes to the vast array of fresh ingredients available to them. "Hong Kong suppliers, who do not have to contend with duties or other red tape to bring in produce, are willing to go out of their way to provide us with the freshest ingredients available. I challenge any city in the region that will have a daily supply of fresh fish from Japan flown in daily."

Duty-free wine

Mr Gwynne agreed and pointed out that the abolition of wine duties in Hong Kong has also been a boon to the local food scene, allowing local restaurants to offer a wide variety of good quality wine at competitive prices.

By the time the Hong Kong edition of the Michelin Guide comes out in December, inspectors will have visited 1,200 outlets shortlisted from the city's 15,000 restaurants. Out of those, dozens are expected to earn anywhere from a one star ("a very good restaurant in its category") to the highest, three stars ("exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey").
 
"It's great Michelin has taken an interest in Hong Kong. It's a recognition of the sophistication of the city's dining scene," Mr Talpo said. Other proponents of Hong Kong's dining scene, like 1/5 Nuevo's Mr Gwynne, is banking on the new Michelin Guide to further enhance Hong Kong's image as a gourmet paradise. "It's a testament to Hong Kong chefs, who have raised the quality of dining here to an international level."

Related link
Michelin Guide


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